Just out of curiosity what is the best way to tweak you can when having the springs .01 off the bottom plate? Do you use a shim while tweaking or some other method. Also, I see you ran magenta over yellow or gray lows. How did they feel on such high traction? Did they free the rear up or plant it more? Finally, Was the red center spring the new red spring or the old stiffer one?

I use scales on the front tires to make sure the chassis is balanced, no tweeking then Make sure you take the side tubes off, motor wires and sensor cable need to be off, and back off the side springs. I just look at the L to R weight on the front tires then move my electronics around till the front tires are equal. I have an aluminum spacer that goes under the rear tires to lift them up to the same height as the front.

When all is good I set the car on a flat surface and bring the springs down. I slide a header card (or something approx. .01" thick) under them and let the spring just kiss it, then stop. Then I'll set the rear of the car up on a Niftech tweek bar and see how much the rear pod returns when I push each rear tire down. I'll watch to see how far the bubble is off center each way and fine tune the springs so they're equal. At no time will the bubble center while doing this, the springs are off the bottom plate and won't let the rear pod center.

The red center spring was an old spring (Assoc.)

The magenta rears helped with side traction and seemed to have more forward bite. My car was good with purple fronts and yellow rears, but it "slid" on the carpet in some turns. I changed to magenta fronts and had too much front bite and started to square off. My last change was to magenta rears, which was the perfect balance with the magenta fronts.

What RX battery pack are you using?

It's a Team Scream 7.4v lipo 120mah.

Noticed your flat mount servo position? In the past that has not been a setup promoted by Frank, but to each his own? I'm fairly sure that Brian Bodine runs this servo setup as well and has for quite some time. Could you give us a quick overview of what types of handling or driveability a club driver may benefit by experimenting with this setup over the standard angle mount? Getting the "correct" tie-rod angles is key, no?

This was the first season I've run the servo flat in my Gen-XL. I've had it on an angle for the previous 4 seasons. You won't believe it, but the only reason I put it flat was to gain room for my electronics..lol.. I had Black Diamond ESC I was running last season and didn't have any luck getting in and balancing the car. I put the servo down and moved it forward and was able to get all the electronics in with room to spare.

As for handeling, I've always felt it was more aggressive with the servo down. I went into this season knowing the car would handle more aggressively, but decided to adjust my driving style and car set up to adjust to it. Even with the servo down it still didn't feel as aggressive as I wanted at the beginning of the season, so I went back to the stock upper arms and removed the graphite brace to lower the 10* mounts. I don't think you can get a more aggressive (castor/camber changing) set up then what I have on there now...

The car is on the edge and will dive in / square off if I try to "roll" it. So I drive it very hard!! It's not an easy set up to run, but it looses no speed through the turns.

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