Front

Middle track width hole
Long wheelbase
Trailing axles
Standard upper arm
Full caster
2 deg camber
10 deg blocks
Blue spring (same as side spring)
King pin length - .580 from bottom of steering block to e-clip groove
10,000 silicone on kingpins
Used the middle hole on the graphite steering arms for the tie rod
Kimbrough mid size servo saver (not sure if it makes a difference or not)
CRC front end stiffener plate (p/n 1785)

Center

Shock - 35 wt oil and 30 lb spring
Shock in kit location (second hole from bottom)
Battery all the way forward

Rear

Tubes - 10,000 wt (blue cap)
Red side springs - about 1 turn preload
Wide body mount plates (p/n 1771)
2 .020 shims under the front of the side links (you have to re-set the football to do this) for a little rear steer.

Ride Height 4.25mm all the way around

Battery all the way forward

Tires

2.08 front and rear
front glued all the way to the edge - 7/8 traction compound
rear "safety" glue (just the seam between plastic and foam) - full traction compound

Bodyshell

Protoforn Sophia body

Motor

Putnam tuned trinity duo with a 2.60 rollout

You can run less front traction and less glue, but I found a little more corner speed doing it this way. At club race grip levels I ran less traction and less glue. Dont try to run that much traction unless you have the front glued all the way up, I tried, it wasn't pretty.

Very little dual rate, used more than 3/4 or the lane to do a u-turn

I ran a JR 3550 servo and it seems plenty strong enough for these bigger cars.

The car was easy and fun to drive.