I didn't follow the manual, so this was my step one. The battery mount is a tuning part, the battery tape is Yokomo. Note the metal inlays that had to be glued in with CA. They prevent the the set screw scratching the chassis.

Spool: I used titanium screws for the whole kit because I had bad experience with the screws 3racing used on the Cactus, so I didn't try the kit ones.

Main gear assembly: It came pre assembled, I used loctite on all screws here. The blue bits are pink in the kit.

Steering: I used countersunk head screws to get no binding. I used all 4 big shims that where included. Evereything good so far.

Diff: The gears are not great but seem to work. I sanded them flush, used tamiya O-Rings and did the rest by manual. The blue sealing is ok, but like 90% of all cars could be better.

Shocks: I tried tamiya X-Rings and was left with leaking shocks (more leak than tamiya ones produce with the same ring, shimming din't help much), I tried the kit ones (the translucent ones in the front) and they produce quite a bit drag. I will try diffent rings soon. Springs are soft and best used for outdoor racing. The mat black finish lookes great.

Drivetrain: The small screws holding the bearings in place are a bit odd, but it works better than expected, I din't tighten them down completly, just use them to get the position.

Chassis: The front and rear blocks just use one screw and use 2 pins, how cool is that? The bulkheads are pinned to get the position. That makes it super easy to get everything in the ringht place without blocks or diff and spool mounted. The key feature for me.

Shock towers mounted: might look strange with different colors.

Arms: I used a reamer and had to cut the excess plastic at the holes and everything was bind free. The only part I sanded were the steering knuckels

Finish and some final notes: Sway bars are the same size front and rear. The double CVDs and rear CVD are both steel. The rear use blades. The kit body mounts are plastic the alloy ones are not included. The 3Racing Servo horn which is available now should look a bit better than my blue one. I uses normal ball stands on the rear C hub because it is easier to work on them but maybe more prone to break.

Source:

Simon K