The first step of this procedure takes into account that you know how
to set up your car and it isn't tweaked or out of spec to begin with.
If you're doing this for the first time, go over your shock lengths,
make sure you check all your droop settings, and check to make sure
nothing is bent or bound up. Any sort of setup problem can be
amplified down the line.
Measure the rough distance from the lower ball on the A-arm to the
sway bar. At this point it may be an approximation, but keep the sway
bar level with the chassis and the arms at ride height. This will give
you your target length for both sides.
Adjustable links are required for proper installation. They allow you
to account for changes in mounting location. The first thing you need
to do is build them to the same length, and get the ball cups pointing
in the right direction so you don't alter them too much when you
actually mount them to the vehicle.
Mount the sway bar to the chassis. This is different on just about
every car, but the principal is the same. Use the mounting brackets on
the car. Adjust the setscrews to push against the bar to eliminate
slop. Todd notes that if you set the sway bar without any slop, the
car may become hyper-reactive. They often allow for a little play in
the mount to take away some of that edge.
Snap the ball cups on the a-arm and the sway bar. At this time you can
visually check that the lengths are correct. They should line up
perfectly and not move the sway bar up or down.
Adjusting the position of the ball studs on the sway bar is critical.
Make sure both sides are equidistant from the end of the sway bar.
Always start with the mounts the furthest out, and if you feel you
need more bar, move them in on the sway bar.