Batteries sells individual shrink with its battery bars (Battery
Build Kits). It is highly recommended that this shrink is
applied to the cells. It will not only add another layer of
protection to the cell for shorting but will also protect the
matching label to preserve the data so Slingshot Batteries can
warranty a cell if required.
It is easiest
to apply the shrink to the cell with a heat gun. However, if
you don’t have access to a heat gun, other heat sources can
shrink over the cell with an even amount of overhang on each
end and apply heat. The shrink should cover the entire cell
and leave the ends open for soldering the battery bars to the
now exposed positive/negative ends of the cell.
performance matched Slingshot Batteries will arrive as
individual cells which you will have to assemble. It is
recommended that you use a 40W or hotter soldering iron with a
broad tip for soldering battery backs together. A battery jig
such as the one sold by Deans is also recommended to aid in
the battery building process.
applied the shrink to each cell, it is time to tin the ends of
the cell. Using a piece of fine sand paper or equivalent,
lightly scuff both ends of the cell. This will help solder
adhere to the cell. Then apply a small bead of solder on each
end of each battery. It is important that you do not hold the
soldering iron on the cell any longer then necessary. Heating
up the cell too much during the soldering process can
permanently damage a cell in your new battery pack.
Next tin the
ends of each battery bar with some solder (60/40 rosin core
solder is preferred) on the bottom side of each battery bar.
After the cells and the battery bars have cooled it is time to
solder the battery pack together. Place a batter bar between
the positive end and the negative end of two cells. Apply
enough heat to melt the solder on the battery bar and the cell.
Do not hold the soldering iron the cells more then 3-4
seconds. If it takes longer then this to melt the solder, wait
for the iron to heat up again or apply a little more solder to
the tip of the soldering iron and try again once the cell and
cooled back down. It is best to use the least amount of solder
necessary to make a good joint. More solder equals more
resitance and can effect the overall performance our your new
battery pack. Also on the positive side of the cell it is
important that the solder stay on the button of the cell. If
solder runs past the button, the solder will cover up
important venting holes in the cell. This will void the
warranty of your pack.
Battery Build Kits come with enough bars to add a battery bar
to the positive and negative terminals of your assembled
packs. It is recommended that you use these extra bars if you
direct solder or even if you use a plug. These bars attached
to the ends of the pack will make it easier to install and
remove your battery from the vehicle. Two battery bars should
be bent at 90 deg angles. This is easily accomplished by
holding onto the battery bar at the step with a pair of pliers
and bending the bar over with your finger. This will make a
good surface to attach your speed control wires or to attach
your plug to.
If you do
install a plug on your new Slingshot Batteries high
performance racing cells, we suggest you use a high quality
plug such as the Deans Ultra plug, Corrally style plugs or
Powerpole connectors. Tamiya or Associated style connectors
that come with RTR cars or stick packs add a high amount of
resistance and can actually melt together under high loads.
If you do not
have access to a battery building jig you can glue your
slingshot batteries together with shoegoo to form a pack and
aid in assembly. Gluing the cells together will aid in the
strength of the battery pack but is not necessary if the
battery is properly soldered together.