How to Assemble Cells into a Pack

Individual shrink wrap

Slingshot Batteries sells individual shrink with its battery bars (Battery Build Kits). It is highly recommended that this shrink is applied to the cells. It will not only add another layer of protection to the cell for shorting but will also protect the matching label to preserve the data so Slingshot Batteries can warranty a cell if required.

It is easiest to apply the shrink to the cell with a heat gun. However, if you don’t have access to a heat gun, other heat sources can be used.

Slide the shrink over the cell with an even amount of overhang on each end and apply heat. The shrink should cover the entire cell and leave the ends open for soldering the battery bars to the now exposed positive/negative ends of the cell.

Soldering Batteries

Your high performance matched Slingshot Batteries will arrive as individual cells which you will have to assemble. It is recommended that you use a 40W or hotter soldering iron with a broad tip for soldering battery backs together. A battery jig such as the one sold by Deans is also recommended to aid in the battery building process.

After you’ve applied the shrink to each cell, it is time to tin the ends of the cell. Using a piece of fine sand paper or equivalent, lightly scuff both ends of the cell. This will help solder adhere to the cell. Then apply a small bead of solder on each end of each battery. It is important that you do not hold the soldering iron on the cell any longer then necessary. Heating up the cell too much during the soldering process can permanently damage a cell in your new battery pack.

Next tin the ends of each battery bar with some solder (60/40 rosin core solder is preferred) on the bottom side of each battery bar. After the cells and the battery bars have cooled it is time to solder the battery pack together. Place a batter bar between the positive end and the negative end of two cells. Apply enough heat to melt the solder on the battery bar and the cell. Do not hold the soldering iron the cells more then 3-4 seconds. If it takes longer then this to melt the solder, wait for the iron to heat up again or apply a little more solder to the tip of the soldering iron and try again once the cell and cooled back down. It is best to use the least amount of solder necessary to make a good joint. More solder equals more resitance and can effect the overall performance our your new battery pack. Also on the positive side of the cell it is important that the solder stay on the button of the cell. If solder runs past the button, the solder will cover up important venting holes in the cell. This will void the warranty of your pack.

Slingshot Battery Build Kits come with enough bars to add a battery bar to the positive and negative terminals of your assembled packs. It is recommended that you use these extra bars if you direct solder or even if you use a plug. These bars attached to the ends of the pack will make it easier to install and remove your battery from the vehicle. Two battery bars should be bent at 90 deg angles. This is easily accomplished by holding onto the battery bar at the step with a pair of pliers and bending the bar over with your finger. This will make a good surface to attach your speed control wires or to attach your plug to.

If you do install a plug on your new Slingshot Batteries high performance racing cells, we suggest you use a high quality plug such as the Deans Ultra plug, Corrally style plugs or Powerpole connectors. Tamiya or Associated style connectors that come with RTR cars or stick packs add a high amount of resistance and can actually melt together under high loads.

If you do not have access to a battery building jig you can glue your slingshot batteries together with shoegoo to form a pack and aid in assembly. Gluing the cells together will aid in the strength of the battery pack but is not necessary if the battery is properly soldered together.








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