steps to like-new
Of all the “pro” features to trickle down
to “sport” speed controls, external solder points
for the motor and battery wires are probably the most
useful. You can cut the wires as short as you
like for a custom installation, and then simply
replace them when you move the speed control to a new
vehicle that requires different lengths. If a wire is
damaged, you don’t have to make a hack-looking
splice—just replace the whole wire. The catch? You
need a little soldering-iron savvy to do the job. Don’t
worry; it’s easy!
40W (or higher) pencil type soldering iron
60/40 rosin-core solder
the old wire
Clip the wire into the third-hand tool so the
bottom of the solder tab is facing you. Lift the speed
control slightly, so there is tension on the wire.
Touch the tip of the soldering iron to a piece of
solder to “wet” the tip, then touch the tip to the
wire. As soon as the solder liquefies, it will release
the wire, and the tension on the wire will pull it out
of the tab.
Melt a little solder onto the tip of your
iron to help flow heat into the joint.
the speed control slightly to tension the wire as
you heat the joint. If the solder doesn’t melt and
release the wire in a second or two, the soldering
iron isn’t hot enough.
Once the wire is removed, its hole will
likely be filled with solder. That’s normal;
resist the urge to drill it out!
yourself a hand
have a third-hand tool? Just wrap a
thick rubber band around a pair of
pliers to spring-load the jaws. It
isn’t quite as handy (no pun
intended) as a third hand, but it
will get the job done.
the new wire
Cut the wire slightly longer than you think you’ll
need, and use the wire strippers to remove about 3mm
of insulation from one end. Twist the exposed strands
together, then dab them with flux. Hold the tip of the
soldering iron to the strands, and then feed in the
solder. When the strands are coated (“tinned”)
with solder, stop. Additional solder will only flow
under the insulation and make the wire stiff.
the wire at least 1 inch longer than you need.
the insulation and twist the wire strands
dab of flux will help solder flow onto the
the wire with solder, but don’t overdo it.
that you know how to replace your speed
control’s wires, there’s no excuse for
not having a superclean installation. Here
are some tips to help you get your wiring
Not too tight!
You want the wires as short as possible to
minimize electrical resistance, but leave
enough slack to absorb chassis flex. You don’t
want a crash or hard landing to break the
fights glitching. If you’re
having trouble with radio glitching, and you’ve
already made certain that the motor has the
correct capacitors on it, try twisting the
motor wires together. It just might cure
wires. If you transfer your
speed control from one vehicle to another,
save the wires from the vehicle that’s
getting shelved. When it’s time to put the
speed control back in, you won’t have to
make up a new set of wires.
the new wire into our third-hand tool—close to the
wire’s tinned end. Hold the speed control so the
open solder tab is against the wire (don’t worry if
the hole in the solder tab is plugged by a web of
solder). Melt a little solder onto the tip of the iron
and then touch the iron to the tab. When the solder
liquefies, the wire will slip into the tab’s hole.
When you see the solder on the tab and the tinned wire
flow together, the joint is complete.
gentle downward pressure as you heat the
the wire pokes through, remove the iron and
hold the speed control steady until the joint
you have it—fresh wires for your speed
control. This is Novak’s new XRS reversing