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Here
are the supplies we gather before we begin:
Three Team Losi CK Mini T bodies, Parma
FasMask, Tamiya masking tape, Pactra spray
paint, dish soap, Dynamite Lexan scissors, and
a Sportwerks reamer. |
When it comes to RC
related tasks, painting a body can be one of the most
intimidating tasks for a modeler. There are so many
talented people out there who create masterpieces that
painting your first body can be rather daunting. I
have seen many of these people at racetracks and clubs
around the country running what I call the 'One-Color
Wonders' . They simply went to the hobby shop shelf
for a can of paint, masked the windows, and blasted
the body with a single color. If this describes you,
then there's great news on the horizon. I spent some
time recently talking with one of the most experienced
painters today, Team Losi's Gary Kyes, about some
basic and easy painting techniques that just about
anyone can use to make a statement with their paint.
Body
Preparation:
If you're new to the
hobby, you might not realize that Lexan RC bodies are
actually painted from the inside. The shine and sheen
that you see reflecting off a body doesn't come from
the paint, but rather from the reflective nature of
the Lexan itself. I've seen many bodies at the track
or at club even ts with sections of paint that have
been chipped away, leaving large gaping clear areas on
the body. This happens because the body was not
properly prepared before the layers of paint were
applied. There is a mold release agent that is
sometimes sprayed on the inside of the body to allow
it to come off the mold without sticking. While this
agent makes it easy to pull the body off the mold, it
also prevents the paint from sticking to the inside of
the body. You will need to thoroughly wash and rinse
out the body with warm water mixed with liquid dish
washing detergent to remove any left over residue that
might still be on the body. It's a simple thing, but
one of the most commonly overlooked. Once the body has
been washed and rinsed out, dry it with a lint-free
cloth or towel such as the Team JR pit towel (P/N
JRPP100). Then you are ready to mask off the body for
paint
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Use
warm, soapy water to wash out a body before
you begin painting, this will wash off any
residue or dust that may be inside. |
Gary Kyes:
Getting a body washed, rinsed, and dried is really
an important step that some people overlook or don't
pay nearly enough attention to. If you don't do a
thorough job of drying the body you may run into
problems with the paint not adhering properly. I
have often used compressed air to blow out the
remaining water from all the nooks and crannies that
you might otherwise miss. You can also try shaking
the body out or swinging it in an effort to get the
last little drops out. Do not use paper towels when
drying off the body . A regular clean dishtowel
works well. Paper towels leave fuzz or lint behind,
plus they break apart when wet. And here's one final
tip when cleaning off the body. It's not only
important to wipe down the inside of the body to dry
it, but don't forget to wipe off the outside of the
body as well, to neutralize any static charge that
can attract overspray and cause ghosts or streaks in
your paint.
Masking
and Planning:
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Pre-Cut
window masks make life so much easier. Take
your time when applying the masks, lining up
the mask edges with the etching inside the
body. |
To make painting the
body even easier, every Team Losi body includes
pre-cut window masks. But if you want to create
something other than a basic paint scheme, you will
need to use either masking tape or some sort of liquid
masking product. Many people like to use masking tape
as it is relatively inexpensive, it can be applied to
the inside of the body quickly, and you can
immediately start painting once the masking tape is in
place. There are many painters who personally prefer
liquid masking products, such as Parma's Faskolor
Liquid Mask (P/N PAR40282: 8oz; PAR40283: 16oz) for
several reasons. With liquid mask, you have the
ability to work with more complicated designs if you
prefer, the odds of having a bleeding problem can be
reduced, and, for me at least, it's easier to plan out
the design. The dow nside of liquid mask is that you
will need to wait, usually overnight, for the mask to
dry on the body. You can speed up the drying process
with the aid of a hair dryer.
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Parma's
Liquid Mask is one of my personal favorites.
All you need to do is pour the liquid mask
inside the body, spread it around, and let it
dry overnight. |
Many people go out and
wow everyone with their paint skills, only to be
disappointed when the finished product doesn't turn
out as they envisioned. I know I am not a great
painter; I don't have the patience to be one. But I
know I can do a decent job if I put my mind to it and
paint within my limits. The key is to use many of the
tools that are available to help make the job easier.
One of the best purchases I've made is a 6”
ruler that I use as a straightedge inside of a body.
This makes it easy for someone like me who can't draw
a straight line to cut one in the liquid mask. Some
people use adhesive shapes (like circles, squares, or
even stars to name a few) as pre-cut masks to bring
out a new dimension in their paint scheme.
Gary Kyes: When
you look at the paint on a car, whether full -scale
or RC, you will notice that the preparation that
went into the paint job constitutes 80% of the work
that went into the final results. If you don't have
things planned out well before you start, you may be
doomed to a less than satisfactory result. I find
masking tape to be easier to work with, but you need
to use a good quality tape or you could have bleed
problems. I like using an automotive quality masking
tape (made by 3M) for several reasons. After you are
done with an area and go to remove the masking tape,
it doesn't leave a gooey, sticky residue that could
cause a blotching problem. It's also easier to make
a curve or bend without it tearing or kinking. I'm
not a huge fan of the vinyl tape available from some
companies; I've noticed that if you run vinyl tape
around a curved surface, walk away, and return five
minutes late r, the tape will have lifted up from
the curved area. This can lead directly to potential
bleeding problems. If you do wish to use vinyl tape,
be very careful not to stretch it or problems will
occur. Tamiya sells a yellow paper tape in four
sizes from 6 to 40mm that works very well,
especially for back taping. Because it is a thinner
tape, it is easier to cut through and doesn't drag
on the knife blade as much. Speaking of which, you
need to always use a fresh, sharp blade anytime you
try to cut into masking material. A dull blade can
catch and tear the masking material, pulling it away
from the surface you want to mask off.
Applying
the Paint:
Whether you use spray
cans or an airbrush, there are basics that apply to
both. I'll discuss spray cans first, since they are
the easiest to use and the most common as well.
Instead of simply shaking the can to help prepare the
paint, you may want to run the can under the faucet
with warm water flowing over it. The paint tends to
flow better out of spray cans when the ambient
temperature is over 70 degrees, and the additional
heat input also helps to pressurize the can a little
more. Be very careful here, as you don't need to
overly heat up the can, all you are trying to do is
get the can temperature above 70 degrees. By keeping
the water temperature at a reasonable setting, you
also ensure that you cannot be burned by overly hot
water.
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We
used Pactra spray paint on all of the bodies
used here, but you can also use an airbrush as
well. As you spray, use thin coats to prevent
drips and runs. Also remember to start with
the darkest color first. |
While this same trick
doesn't work with an airbrush, there are steps you can
take before you start spraying that will make the job
much easier. Have all your tips ready to go, making
sure they are all clean and rinsed from the last time
you used them. Nothing ruins your day faster than to
spray what you think is white and have it come out
pink because you didn't rinse the tip out after the
last time you used it to spray red. Don't forget about
the body of your airbrush, too, as old paint can
collect in there, fouling up the action of the
airbrush and affecting the flow of paint. When you
begin to spray, hold the can about 8 to 12 inches away
from the area where you are going to paint (6 to 8 for
airbrushes), moving side-to-side using a smooth,
flowing motion. Don't glob the paint on in one thick
coat, as using more, thinner coats will generally
result in a better looking finished product.
Gary
Kyes: Before you even think about pain ting, you
need to be in a well-ventilated room so that the
paint fumes don't overcome you. If the body doesn't
have overspray film on the outside of it, take a
plastic bag, such as the one the body came in, and
tape it around the body. This will keep the paint on
the inside of the body, where you want it. If you
are inexperienced at painting, a piece of cardboard
could be your new best friend. Use the cardboard as
a test surface to see how fast or slow the paint
will flow out of the can or airbrush. Additionally,
use the cardboard to see how quickly you need to
move side-to-side for the best and most even paint
coverage. When you start to spray, depress the
nozzle before you get to the part of the cardboard
(or body) to start the spray, and don't release it
until after you have panned past the area you wish
to cover. This technique prevents you from having an
area of the body that has a lighter color than the
rest of the area. As you spray, and this is
extremely important, hold the can or airbrush
perfectly perpendicular to the surface you are
spraying. This ensures that the color distribution
will be even and your lines will be as smooth as
possible. Don't go gonzo when applying the paint.
Not only are multiple, thinner/lighter coats better
for color consistency, but the solvent/thinner in
the paint is designed to actually eat into the body's
plastic and if you put to o much on at one time it
can actually cause damage, making it very brittle.
When you are spraying with a water-based paint, such
as Parma Faskolor, you will definitely want to use a
hair dryer to help the paint dry between coats. When
you use the hair dryer, hold the body so that any
paint that might drip will do so away from your
masked area. The reason for this is to again prevent
bleeding.
Basic
Effects:
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When
using a marble technique, blot the inside of
the body wh ile the paint is still wet with a
paper towel or other lint-free cloth. Remember
to blot the paint; don’t smear. I used
three coats of red before I backed it with
white. |
Like I said, I am an
average painter. I've painted up more than a few 'One-Color
Wonders' myself, but I will probably never paint a
basic one-color body again since I've learned the
sponge technique. A friend of mine painted a body
for me about two years ago, with the coolest effect in
the blue sections of the paint a white swirl pattern
in the blue parts of the body. When I asked him how he
had accomplished such a difficult-looking effect, he
told me that it was quite easy and anyone could do it.
Once he had sprayed down the first coat of the primary
color (in this case blue), he simply blotted the still
-wet paint with the bag that the body had come in.
While he used the clear bag the body came in, you can
use a sponge, paper towels, or even a paper bag to
blot the body with. The key is to dab at the sections
of the body ; don't try to swirl the colors around by
twisting your blotter side to side. This dabbing
removes random sections of the paint that have just
been sprayed down, and this process is repeated with
each subsequent coat of paint. There will be sections
of paint that will not be removed with any of the
smudges, and those sections of the body will appear
darker than some other sections. Once you have sprayed
your final coat of paint and have finished blotting or
sponging the body, back it up with white paint. This
is what makes this effect work. The white will fill in
any gaps in coverage as well as making the base color
snap to life. All I can say is that once you see this
done, you will never run a regular single-color paint
scheme again.
Gary Kyes: One of
my favorite yet easy techniques I use is called the
Fade. You can use just two colors to do this, but I've
used three and four colors as well. The one big
thing to remember with Fades is that you need to use
complementary colors, such as Red with Yellow and
Orange. You can also use half-tones or different
tones of the same color. On one of my favorite
bodies, I used a Candy Blue and a solid Medium Blue
and I was very impressed with the result. Once you
have chosen the colors you are going to use, you
should spray the darker color first, gradually going
to lighter and lighter colors. In the event that you
have to spray a lighter color first, back it with
white, and if you have to paint white first, you
should back it with silver. Follow this same pattern
when working on smaller detail areas, such as
stripes, as well. In all cases, make sure you allow
each color to dry completely before applying another
over it.
For the fade, you will
need to decide if you want to fade the colors from
front to rear or top to bottom. You want to start by
spraying the first color at your normal speed for
regular coverage but as you get to the area where the
next color is going to overlap you need to move at
about twice the speed so the paint is very thin and
almost translucent. Before you actually spray the
paint on the body, test your idea out on a piece of
paper towel. This will let you practice how far and
fast you should go with your beginning color before
you start fading it out and leading into the secondary
color. When you start to spray your second color, you
will start at the point where you left the previous
color thin and use the same technique as for the
first.
Detail with
Decals:
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One
of the easiest ways to apply a decal is to pe
el half the backing off, get the decal placed,
and slowly pe el the remaining backing off as
you apply it to the body. |
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When
applying smaller decals, using an X-Acto knife
can make things much easier. This allows me to
make sure the decal is level and in the right
spot. |
Each body has its own
personality molded into it before you even take it out
of the bag. Fans of almost any make full - sized car
can replicate that same look and feeling with their
R/C vehicles too. I happen to love the look of the
full-size CK trucks, so I naturally fitted my personal
Mini-T. But if you don't actually use the included
headlight and grill e decals, the body just looks like
any old truck. Take a couple of extra minutes and
apply the included detail decals, such as the grill e
and headlights, the taillights, and any other detail
graphics to add that extra touch of personality to
your new shell. The reward will be well worth the
effort. One little piece of advice that will save you
aggravation later, and don't ask how I know about this
(ok, I did it myself once) : Before you apply any
decals, make sure you peel the over spray film off the
outside of the body. No matter how careful you are,
how much time you spend, you will occasionally have a
section of mask that may bleed through. While to some
this may mean the end of a great body, this is where
the truly creative come to life. Once a color has bled
through there isn't much you can do to fix the
problem, but you can cover up a mistake with creative
decal placement. Just running a blank body without any
decals can look rather blah ; the use of decals and
their placement can not only be the final touch to a
great -looking body, but careful decal placement can
also hide minor goofs and errors in the paint. Just
remember that more is not always better, as a body
with a million different decals can look overly busy
and cluttered.
Gary Kyes:
Stickering a body can be tricky, but if you take
your time and are patient, you will be rewarded in
the end. I like to peel the sticker off of the
backing and then replace it so that it is half on
and half off the backing. This will let you position
it and make sure everything is straight before you
put the sticker on for good. By leaving the backing
on, you can remove, relocate, or otherwise change
the placement without ruining the decal.
Mounting
the Body:
This can be the make or
break step in getting your new body ready, and yet
this is the most common step people trip up on. All
Team Losi bodies have mold lines in them as a
guideline for cutting the front wheel wells out, along
with the sides. Additionally, replacement bodies such
as those for the Mini-T, LST, BK2, or MF2 also have
molded -in dimples to indicate where the body
postholes should be drilled. This is where the first
mistake is often made, as I have seen countless bodies
with jagged, oversized, or just otherwise ugly
mounting holes. Put the hobby knife down when it comes
to the body mount holes, and opt for a quality reamer.
Remove just a little material at a time, test-fitting
the body as you go along. The other common mistake
happens when it's time to open up the wheel wells.
Again, I've seen people hacking at the trim lines with
a hobby knife, a straight scissors, or other foreign
object. If you have a steady hand, you can use a hobby
knife to score the wheel well enough so you can simply
bend it out. However, I have found that people with
that steady of a hand are few and far between. Using
an actual circle cutter will yield perfectly rounded
and smooth wheel wells every time and won't create
jagged edges like using Lexan scissors could possibly
do.
Gary Kyes:
Instead of struggling to mount a painted body, mark
the body mount holes while the body is still clear.
That will make the job much easier. To get perfectly
round wheel well holes, the Olfa Compass Cutter
(OLF991) will do the trick each and every time.
Simply mark the centerline of the axle (again this
is easiest to do before you paint), fix the blade
portion on the scribed wheel well marks, and rotate
the compass to score the wheel well. Since the rear
wheel wells aren't scribed, use a tire as a template
and mark where the rear wheel wells should be with a
Sharpie marker.
Painting a body can be
a challenging adventure if you have never done so
before, but it is not as daunting as it might first
appear. Like I said, you need to know your limitations
and not get in over your head, but as you gain
experience and confidence, definitely feel free to
experiment with different things. I will be the first
to admit that some of my coolest paint jobs have
evolved out of something that I had first made a
mistake on. I do want to thank Team Losi's Gary Kyes.
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