|
So
what exactly is the 10Lv2.5? Well, it's the "upgrade"
to the Associated 10L2 that AE themselves doesn't want to build.
In short, it's a tri-shock rear pod for the 10L2. Setup sheets
for the car are at the bottom of this page.
To
get started you need, obviously, an existing 10L2. The parts
needed to make the conversion are as follows:
-
2
of Associated VCS micro shocks; AE part#4470
-
1
of Associated 10L3t top plate;
AE part#8476
-
1
of Associated 10L3 bottom plate; AE part#8475
-
3
packs of Associated Axles Spacers (you get 2 per package);
AE part#8321 (Note:
you don’t actually need to buy that specific package, just
have those type of ball studs on hand.)
-
Total
quantity of 4, 4-40 ball studs of the type packaged with AE
part#4447
-
30wt
shock oil
Additional
Associated VCS micro shock springs as necessary. The order
listed below is just the way I built my version.
Step1
Take
your existing L2 and remove everything rearward of the T-bar.
That means the lower plate, top plate, etc. Remove the center
dampner post as it's no longer needed. Remove the rear axle
and bulkheads from your old pod. Remove the tweak screws
from the T-bar.
Step2
Attach
the bulkheads to the new lower plate and top plate, attach new
pod to T-bar. Install the 4-40 ball studs in the obvious place
they go on the top plate. Build side shocks as instructed by
AE in the paper that come packaged with them. Assemble them
with 30wt. oil for your starting point. Replace the 4-40
screws next to the rear body posts that hold on the rear-cross
brace with the 4-40 ball studs. Attach the shocks.
Step
3
Almost
done. All that's left is to re-space the rear axle and tweak
the car. I'm assuming if you're reading this, you're a
hardcore racer and that means that you have the AE #8465B
left-hand clamping hub. Take the spacer that comes with that
hub and move it to the right side of the axle as seen in the
pic below: Next, take the 6 AE axle spacers you bought as
"parts needed" and install them on the left-hand
side. The end result is a rear axle spacing that is
symmetrical to within .5 of a mm, or in other words, it's as
close to center as I can measure it with the resources I have.
To
tweak the car, lift it from the front or place it on a tweak
station much as you normally would with a conventional L2 but to
adjust the tweak, simply adjust the spring tension on the side
shocks.
You'll
note in the picture below that the shock you see on the left has
a bit more tension than the one you see on the right side of the
pic:
That's
just the way it worked out for me personally to set my cars' tweak.
The
finished product waiting for a heat race at Revelation
Raceway's Airtronics Spring
Challenge event in March 2003:
Setting
up the 10Lv2.5
You
now have a Pan Car with two very distinct ways to adjust it's
cornering. The side shocks now have a drastic affect on the cars' side
bite with little to no effect on it's forward bite while the center
shock now affects only the cars' forward bite.
Here's
an if/then guide to setting up your 10Lv2.5. I'll assume that everyone
reading this far already knows all the basic front-end adjustments,
etc. so this guide will concentrate only on the rear of the car.
-
Car
pushes on corner entry = Stiffen side shock springs/oil. Note: If
you get too hard on the side shocks for the track conditions, the
whole car will “skate” laterally in
the turns. At that point, back off (i.e., soften) on those and
look for more steering elsewhere.
-
Car
is loose on entry = soften side shock springs/oil.
-
Car
pushes on power and/or corner exit = stiffen center shock
spring/oil; add "third screw" to center of T-bar.
-
Car
is loose on power and/or corner exit = soften center shock
spring/oil; remove "third screw" from center of T-bar.
It
really is just that simple. Based on personal experience with the side
shocks, I would advise never to skip spring rates when changing them;
i.e if you want to go harder, don't jump from sliver to gold by
skipping blue. Also, just change shock oil in 5wt increments. The side
shocks are very receptive to small changes.
Setup
Sheets for the 10Lv2.5:
|
Toe: As close to
straight as possible
|
3: qty: 0
|
|
|
|
4: Ride height
spacers: Standard L2 kit
|
|
|
|
block
|
|
|
CENTER
SHOCK
|
SIDE
SHOCKS
|
|
|
L2 Kit shock
|
STD Micro
|
|
|
Oil: Associated
Wt: 30
|
Oil: Associated
Wt: 30
|
|
|
Spring:
Associated Silver
|
Spring:
Associated Blue
|
|
|
Piston: #1
|
|
|
|
Preload spacers:
Total of 7/16" of AE #6475
|
|
|
|
preload spacers
|
|
|
|
Traxxas Bladder
inside of shock
|
|
|
|
REAR
SUSPENSION
|
REAR
AXLE HEIGHT ADAPTER
|
|
|
T-bar: Standard
L2 .075 T-bar, no tweak screws, all three screws along rear pod.
|
#1 with the
bearing toward the top of the car
|
|
|
|
|
WHEELS
& TIRES
|
Front
|
Rear
|
Car body:
Protoform Medium Downforce Peugeot 905B Motor: Reedy Kr 10x2
Pinion: 14 Spur gear: 84 Batteries: ProMatch GP3300 Chassis:
Standard L2
|
|
Tire type
|
TRC Pink
|
TRC Green
|
|
Wheels
|
TRC
|
TRC
|
|
Tire diameter
|
2.25"
|
2.25"
|
|
On
Road Track Conditions: Asphalt - clean, smooth, and high-bite for
an outdoor track. Sprayed with VHT. Track is 200’x100’ big.
"Winter" layout.
Race
Comments: TQ'd (set new track record) and won.
Car
Comments: Slight push for the first lap or two. Otherwise very
well balanced and fast setup for Pro10 mod. on this 1/8th
scale gas oriented track. This setup is specifically to use Pink
front tires with Green or Aqua rears.
|
CENTER
SHOCK
|
SIDE
SHOCKS
|
|
|
L2
Kit shock
|
STD
Micro
|
|
|
Oil:
Associated Wt: 30
|
Oil:
Associated Wt: 30
|
|
|
Spring:
Associated Silver
|
Spring:
Associated Silver
|
|
|
Piston:
#1
|
|
|
|
Preload
spacers: Total of 5/16" of AE #6475
|
|
|
|
preload
spacers
|
|
|
|
Traxxas
Bladder inside of shock
|
|
|
|
REAR
SUSPENSION
|
REAR
AXLE HEIGHT ADAPTER
|
|
|
T-bar:
Standard L2 .075 T-bar, no tweak screws,
two screws along rear pod.
|
#1
with the bearing toward the top of the car
|
|
|
|
|
WHEELS
& TIRES
|
Front
|
Rear
|
Car
body: Hot Bodies Toyota Motor: Trinity P2k
Pinion:
18
Spur
gear: 84
Batteries:
SMC GP3300
|
|
Tire
type
|
TRC
Pink
|
TRC
White
|
|
Wheels
|
TRC
|
TRC
|
|
|
|
Chassis:
Standard L2 Battery Placement: Rearmost 3 holes on each side
Miscellaneous:
Futaba 3PD radio, AIR737 servo, LRP Quantum Pro Speed Control.
|
|
Tire
diameter
|
2.30"
|
2.30"
|
|
Rear
axle: STD L2 axle Tire treatment type: Trinity Zip Grip 2
|
On
Road Track Conditions: Asphalt, cleaned but not sprayed.
Moderately high-bite, indoors. Rough transitions from the banked
oval to the infield.
Race
Comments: TQ'd and won.
Car
Comments: Neutral and balanced. Can be a bit more unsettled by
SoCal's banking transitions than a conventional L2.
|